Karrimor 2005 Everest Expedition

Dates for your diaries

2005-10-14T18:36:00.000+01:00

We have been working on our multi-media extravaganza and it's looking great. We have 4 confirmed dates so far:

Rheged, Penrith on the Friday 20th January 2006
Tel: 01768 868000
Brewery Arts Centre, Kendal on Saturday 21st January
01539 725133
Theatre by the Lake, Keswick on Tuesday 21st March
Tel: 01768774411
Rosehill Theatre, Whitehaven on Wednesday 22nd March
Tel: 01946 692422

Hope to see you there.
You can also check out Stuart's new website for some more photos:
www.sharpedgeimages.co.uk

Questions answered

2005-06-19T23:48:00.000+01:00

Hello again. In response to a query made in the comments:

Our private expedition was totally self financed, all costs we split between the 8 climbers. We are the Karrimor expedition because one of our members has strong connections there and Karrimor very kindly donated rucksacks, kit bags and sleeping mats to all members including the 4 climbing Sherpas. If you want to go to Everest North side with a commercial outfit you would be looking at paying around 40 thousand dollars.

For training, we are all active people so have a good level of background fitness anyway. For the expedition we all increased the levels of activities; running, climbing, biking, etc.

It is normal to lose weight on expeditions so a priority for the slimmer members especially was to gain some weight. This was achieved in my case (a modest 3kg) through increasing my pie intake (and other food generally) whilst still keeping up the regular exercise regime. Surprisingly I only lost around 3kg on the expedition.

As we are all involved periodically with guiding in the mountains, we each have our own contacts with companies specialising in outdoor equipment and clothing. We can therefore usually wangle a deal on this kind of equipment either in return for photos or in the case of new equipment with test feedback.

I hope this answers your questions.

All's well that ends well

2005-06-16T00:21:00.000+01:00

News from Ian:

'As for health, right eye is still half sight but making
a slow recovery, toe is now purple and getting some feeling back into it and otherwise feel pretty good, going climbing this week and at the weekend and aim to start work in about 10 days'

Big piece in the Keswick Reminder this week, double page spread with loads of photos and in colour too. The last time they printed a colour picture was for the queens visit! We are honoured.

That's probably it for now, or at least until the next jolly. It's been quite an adventure and a fantastic experience. Thanks to the rest of the team and to you all for the comments and support, it really means a lot.
Stuart.

Night view from Base Camp

How's it going Ian?

2005-06-14T18:13:00.000+01:00

I'm hoping that Ian will get in touch to tell me how he is recovering. His blackened, frost bitten toe I know had lost it's scary colour and his voice had come back. I'll hopefully update soon.

A close shave...

2005-06-13T12:22:00.000+01:00

During the 15 minutes or so on the top of the world, neither Tim nor I had kept our oxygen on. It was amazing how fast the cold crept back into our fingers without the warming effects of the oxygen. It was suddenly very clear why people who try to climb the mountain without oxygen have a far greater risk of frostbite. As soon as we donned our masks and turned the oxygen back on, the warmth quickly returned to our fingers.

The Second Step, the crux of the climb at around 8600m

The wind that up to now had been very light was increasing and combined with the temperature, my thermometer had bottomed out at -28 degrees C, decided us to head down. We met Ian on his way up with Pasang, Karma and Jangbu at the foot of the Dihedral, only 30 minutes from the top. After congratulating us and shaking hands he mentioned he was having problems with his eye. I swapped sunglasses with him as I was using my goggles at the time. Tim, Phenden and I continued down making good time.

Returning along the NE Ridge

Along the NE Ridge, abseiling down the rock steps, to the top of the North Ridge. We had descended to within 200m of Camp 3 (8300m) when there was an urgent exchange on the radio. It seemed that Pasang had come across Ian lying collapsed in the snow somewhere below the Second Step. Our hearts stopped, our minds raced. What could we do from here? To climb back up would take hours. Dr John was talking with Pasang on the radio explaining that he had to draw off 2cc of Dexamethasone (lets hope it's not frozen) and inject it into Ian's leg. None of the Sherpas had done this before. In the end Ian
came around enough to do this himself.

Within 5 minutes the drug had taken effect and Ian was able to stand and eventually make progress down. In camp 3 Phenden had started melting snow with a view to carrying hot fluid back up the mountain for Ian. This proved not to be necessary as Ian was able to make his own wobbly way back to Camp 3. On arrival there he looked terrible, he could barely stand, his eyes were bloodshot and he couldn't speak. We piled him into a tent and plied him with hot fluid and a high flow of oxygen. When he was able to, he said his feet were cold and he hadn't had the feeling in his toes for some time. We decided to leave his boots on because if they were frost bitten we wouldn't be able to get them back on again and descent would be even more tricky.

The weather had deteriorated with snow falling and a strong wind. At 13:00 hours Tim gave Ian a tablet of Dexamethasone to top him up and sent him off with Pasang to descend. Remarkably, Ian managed to get down to the North Col where he was met by Mick and Matt and then go all the way back to ABC.

A situation that could have easily turned into a disaster was avoided by good planning (Dr John had provided everyone with an emergency medical kit), teamwork and support from the phenomenally strong team of Sherpas. Importantly, it was Ian's own physical and mental strength that facilitated his evacuation from the mountain. My hat goes off to you.

Stuart, Ian and Tim back at ABC

Tim and I made it down through conditions resembling Scotland in winter to Camp 2 where we crawled, knackered but happy, into one of the tents. We both craved a long cold drink so our efforts at re-hydrating with hot tea or Bovril were half hearted to say the least. The following day we were met at the foot of the glacier by Matt, Dan and Tim. It was then some emotion was released: 'I'm OK, probably glacier dust in my eyes'

Pasang Karma Sherpa's puja certainly worked for us

How about Ian? He had a frost bitten toe, he'd had probable cerebral oedema on the summit of Everest rendering him blind in his right eye and possibly worst of all he'd lost his voice! Find out more...soon...

Prayer flags

The summit is only half way...

2005-06-12T00:24:00.000+01:00

I squeezed into a tent with Tim and Ian who were already in the process of melting snow for brews. It was 17:30 (Nepal time) so we had less than 5 hours before our planned departure to try to eat, drink and rest. As the sun got lower I kept looking out to check the weather, we commented on the absolute lack of wind and marvelled at the spectacle of the myriad peaks and ridges in the setting sun. For the record, Tim had the (dehydrated) lamb dinner.

Looking down over the Kangshung Face to makalu

We managed to arrange our respective limbs and bodies in the tent so it was possible for us all to lie down of a fashion. It would have been an hour and a half¹s rest but for Ian¹s persistent shuffling and fidgeting: 'Hey chaps, anyone seen my pee bottle?' None of us was going to sleep anyway with the anticipation of the climb.

Sunrise from Everest

At 21:00 our alarms went off and Tim set to melting snow for more fluid. Ian was really quite ill at this stage with his chest infection, speaking in only a whisper and doubling over with coughing fits on a regular basis. We drank and filled our water bottles then it was time to go. The outside temperature was minus 25 degrees C. We donned crampons and each put 2 fresh oxygen bottles in our sacks.

The North East Ridge

At 23:00 we started our climb. There were lights already above us but we soon caught up with a small party of Indians, one of whom was having a crampon tied onto his boot with string! (One of the Indians took 14 hours to summit and was not to return). Shortly after we caught up with another group of around 6 people. The ground was steep and it was not possible to pass them for some time. Tim was out in front at this stage and made a good overtaking move as soon as it was possible (annoying the Russian who didn't seem to want to let anyone past). I followed right behind and we quickly moved ahead.

The final difficulties around 8750m (28700ft)

Tim and I stormed ahead leaving the rest of the team stuck behind the slow moving group. The route follows a narrow snow gully interspersed with sections of rocky scrambling all the way to the North East Ridge. All of a sudden you have a new 180-degree's worth of vista opens up below you. Makalu is just there to the south, almost continually backlit and silhouetted by
lightning illuminating the inside of the slowly approaching monsoon storm clouds. What an incredible light show, I could have watched it for hours but we had places to go.

Tim approaching the summit

We made good progress along relatively easy ground up to the first of the 3 steps. This required some easy climbing then more easy ground interspersed with scrambling along sloping rock ledges. The second step took a bit more effort to overcome. In two sections; the first requiring some energetic climbing, the second is the famous Chinese ladder with a brand new ladder in place. Getting off the ladder required 3 or 4 delicate crampon moves on very small rock ledges, very thankful for the fixed lines. The sky in the east was slowly brightening.

The final snow slope

An almost flat section leads to the Third Step that again is far from being a doddle to climb. We climbed up the snow slope above, unclipping from the fixed rope to step past the body of a Slovenian climber who had died just a week previously, to arrive again at the North Face. The sun rose above the eastern horizon casting a huge triangular shadow of Everest. An exposed 100m traverse along sloping ledges led to the Dihedral, the final bit of rock climbing before the summit ridge. 10 minutes up easy snow slopes led to the summit that we reached at 06:00. A small group was just coming down so we had the top of the world to ourselves.

Looking back down the NE Ridge with Kangshung Face on right

The sense of relief and emotions I was expecting to have on summiting did not materialise having been tempered by the numerous bodily reminders of our mortality. Most deaths after all occur on the way down, the summit is only half way.

Stuart on top

More soon

Into the Death Zone

2005-06-11T11:58:00.000+01:00

The night was a very windy one, the flapping of the tent fabric amplifying the sound effect and reducing already disturbed sleep for most. For me at least, I woke rested and feeling relatively good (thank you immodium and O2).

Dan at this stage had made the difficult decision to descend. Tom set off towards Camp 3 but decided after a short distance that he too would return to ABC. Ian and Tim despite their rough night were the first to head off up the hill leaving Mick, Matt and myself to bring up the rear. My thoughts were to see how far I could get, bearing in mind that I had barely eaten or drunk in the last 24 hours, if I got to 8000m that would be a bonus.

Looking down the Rongbuk and East Rongbuk Glaciers with the North Col and Changtse

Ian, who could only talk at a whisper, was obviously suffering with his chest infection whereas Tim who had been coughing and sneezing for a few weeks seemed to be cured. We made steady progress up easy scramble of the North Ridge, Matt and I were using 2 litres per minute oxygen, Mick preferring to do without and striding out in front. Matt at some point had
decided that he would break the 8000m barrier then return. Mick at this stage tried using his oxygen mask and found for whatever reason that he couldn¹t get on with it and so made the decision to go with Matt to a high point above 8000m and then descend.

Camp 3 below the Yellow Band

We followed a rising diagonal ramp leading across the North Face up towards the yellow Band. Half way across this (around 8100m) I said goodbye to Matt and Mick and continued with Phenden Sherpa who had come down from Camp 3 to collect some gear that the others were carrying. Most of the North Face is made up of beds of Shale and Limestone, inclined at just the wrong angle and direction to make passage tricky. With crampons skating around on sloping slabs interspersed with passages of hard snow, I reached the final snow slopes leading up to the base of the Yellow band at 8300m. Plod, plod, a few
steps, a few breaths, a few more breaths, more breaths and repeat, until Camp 3.

Sunset view from Camp 3 (Pumori in the middle at bottom)

What a campsite! Stuck improbably on the steep North Face; a few tents, a few figures, lots of rock, patches of snow and most of the world below. Mountains we have stood at the base of and strained our necks looking up at, we were actually looking down on; Pumori (7145m), Changtse (7585m), Cho Oyu at 8201m for heavens sake! We¹re going camping higher than Cho Oyu. Incredible!

Stay tuned and find out tomorrow who had the lamb for dinner, who was a real fidget in the tent and who upset the Russian.

The Final Chapter

2005-06-10T12:52:00.000+01:00

At last the final chapter (over the next few days)...and some answers

Friday 27th May. The team (Tom, Ian, Mick, Matt, Dan, Tim and myself along with Pasang, Phenden, Jangbu and Karma Sherpas) climbed once again up to Camp 1 on the North Col. Lenticular clouds, like flying saucers, over the highest peaks suggested strong winds at altitude.

Shooting the breeze on the North Col

On our part of the mountain however it turned into a very pleasant jaunt and quite sociable too, we would stop for regular breaks and shoot the breeze with the Sherpas and people from other teams. Once in camp, we brewed up and had some re-hydrated cardboard for dinner, I think my variety was imaginatively called Lamb Fettuccini! The night turned out to be quite dramatic as thunder and lightning crashed and flashed around us.

Phenden Sherpa enjoying a brew

Saturday 28th May. The plod up the snow slope to Camp 2 (7650m) seemed interminable. A snowboarder slid past down the hard packed snow as I was about half way up. Far from ideal boarding conditions, the consequences of a fall don¹t bear thinking about. Near the top of the snow I started getting serious gastric rumblings. I managed to catch up with Tom at around 7500m then got left behind again as my stomach condition required urgent action of the unzipping of flaps kind! In far from ideal conditions I managed to pay a visit 4 times in the space of an hour between altitudes 7550m and 7650m
(maybe it¹s some kind of Everest record???!!!).

Matt leaving Camp 2

The final vertical 100m to Camp 2 is up a rocky ridge requiring a bit of easy scrambling. Fortunately the tents on this exposed ridge had been well lashed down as the wind had picked up dramatically. I crawled into a tent with Tom and struggled to get comfortable. Ian and Tim were in the tent below and Matt and Dan followed shortly after to occupy the third tent on the ridge. The Sherpas were all huddled in the highest of our Camp 2 tents.

Ian and Tim at Camp 2

We brewed up inside the tent, the noise of the tent fabric flapping in the wind making conversation difficult. We couldn¹t face food and retreated into our sleeping bags early. Tom and I both decided to sleep with our oxygen masks on and a low flow of 1 litre per minute. This, alongside a couple of immodiums, meant I got a reasonable night¹s sleep. Ian and Tim decided that
if they slept without oxygen, they would really feel the benefits the next day when they put their masks on and consequently had a rough night with little sleep.

From Camp 2, strong winds creating amazing cloud formations

What happened next? Find out tomorrow in the next exciting instalment of the Karrimor Diaries.

Cats and dogs

2005-06-07T04:51:00.000+01:00

The monsoon has definitely arrived in Kathmandu, it's chucking it down, the streets are awash, the brollies are out and it's hot.

We did most of our chores with the stores and equipment yesterday and have arranged to meet with the Sherpas and kitchen crew later this morning for a little ceremony where we give them their tips and bits of excess equipment. We have written letters of reccomendation for each of them because they were all so splendid. I am still in awe of their strength, stamina and good spirits,
they made it all possible and pleasurable for us.

Tim flies back home today, arriving tomorrow morning early. The rest of us will follow on Wednesday so we will see you all very soon.

We had a meal at Rum Doodles last night (Everest summiteers eat for free!) with Alan Hinkes who returned from a successfull Kangchenjunga expedition, his last of the 14 x 8000m summits. Well done to him.

We are still rushing around sorting stuff and I have to apologise for not giving the full story of the Karrimor team Ascent yet. This will have to wait until I get home.

To whet your appetite and keep your interest up though, you may want to know who had to self administer an injection of Dexamethasone (an extreme pick me up) after he collapsed below the second step, who reached the summit first, do you
really climb past loads of bodies on Everest, can you see my house from the top, is there life on Mars, etc.

I'll let you know most of that and much much more very soon, with pictures.
Thanks again everyone for all the support. Stuart.

Back in Kathmandu

2005-06-05T15:00:00.000+01:00

Namaste everyone,

This is just a quicky to say we are now all safely back in Kathmandu. When we have sorted ourselves out (had our fill of pizza, ice cream, etc!) in the next day or so out I will compose a brief summary of what went on on our climb.
There is plenty to tell.

It's dinner time now and I'm off to fill my mouth with as many flavours as possible (not all at the same time though). I'm meeting the others in a couple of minutes in Fire and Ice, the best pizza place in the universe probably.

Speak to you soon. When I return home I aim to post a load of photos to give you a better idea of what went on and the general scene. Stay posted.

Thanks for all the brilliant messages. Bon appetit, Stuart.

Expedition success - official.

2005-05-31T12:34:00.000+01:00

Stuart called at mid day today to give a brief message:

On the 30th of May 3 climbers (Tim Mosedale, Ian Wade and Stuart Holmes) and 4 Sherpas (Phanden Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, Jangbu Sherpa) Summited Everest. The first of the climbers reached the top at 6am.

All team members are well and back down at ABC.

Stuart will write a full report when they reach Kathmandu.

The plan now is to clear up the camps, The Sherpas are climbing again to the higher camps tomorrow to clear the mountain of all the expeditions equipment and waste.

On the 3rd of June the Team will move down to BC.
4th June drive from BC to Kathmandu.
5th June Kathmandu
8th June Fly back to the UK

Next official update from Kathmandu in a few days.

--
Stuart did talk a little about his climb and the conditions on the climb…

The climb to C2 was particularly hard with strong winds. The forecast was for even stronger winds and snow.
From C2 to C3 at 7600 Stuart was having a particularly uncomfortable time and thought that he would be turning back (I’m sure he’ll be writing more about this…) Eventually he made C3 long after the others.
Leaving C3 Stuart’s thoughts were just to see how high he could get. They all set off together but he and Tim managed to overtake a larger slow group to get ahead and had a better time. More soon…

CONGRATULATIONS to the beards!

2005-05-31T07:49:00.000+01:00

at 7.20am this morning (31st May) Tony Wade posted a message...

" Have just had a call from Ian, they summited 30/05/05 at 0728, all are well and resting at ABC for 2 days.

CONGRATULATIONS to them all, the beards have been there!! Well done the Old Folks."

At last, proper news... Fantastic news… I know the Holmes's were extremely relieved, as I'm sure everyone else was to hear the news.

Before seeing Tony’s comment, I had just found the following on one of the American News sites:

"Update May 30th, 2005: many climbers think the British might have summited last night. So far no news... Except one British climber was seen coming down last night that attempted without oxygen. We are unsure if he was even on this team! More soon.. The Indian Air Force and the Russians summited on the 30th.."

A bit vague - I'm much happier that the news came from Ian. Hopefully there will be more calls today.

No news yet

2005-05-30T13:23:00.000+01:00

There's no news from our team on Everest yet.

News from a few other teams is just coming through though. There seem to be quite a few teams around the summit. Three members of the Indian Air Force team reached summit this morning as did some Russians.

They report "The weather is still holding OK with a few clouds around, but there are quite a few people on the route below them"...

There have only been a few reports from teams with satellite communications on the mountain, all reports are positive.

I will post as soon as I hear anything.

Tough going...

2005-05-29T10:18:00.000+01:00

Latest update from Dr John who called at 10.15 am our time.

The team reached C2 successfully yesterday afternoon and stayed overnight.

They left C2 this morning towards C3. The going has been very tough today and very windy. Dr John expects the first members of the team (Tim and Ian) to reach C3 in an hour or so with others 1-2 hours behind.

There’s lots of talking by radio between team members on the mountain and everyone is safe and well. The winds are still expected to drop for tonight and tomorrow and Dr John expects the team to rest for a while at C3 before setting out later this evening (10ish?) heading for the summit in the morning.

I will post news as soon as I get it, but Dr John thought it wouldn’t be until tomorrow morning (UK time) before he calls again with an update. Tibet is 7 hours ahead of us.

Thunderstorm overnight

2005-05-28T09:02:00.000+01:00

Dr John just called to update everyone on the team's progress...

The team climbed up to C1 as planned yesterday and spent a good night on the Col. During the night there was a big Thunderstorm with lightning and a bit of snow. This suggests that the monsoon is finally making its way North towards the Himalaya.

Everyone is now climbing towards C2 as I write. The weather is good and the wind isn't strong where they are now although still whipping the summit. The wind is still expected to drop significantly for the summit day on the 30th.

I relayed everyone’s best wishes, thoughts and good vibes to the team, combined from all your comments.

Dr John says that everyone is strong and well and that the signs are looking good. He will try to call again tomorrow morning with an update on their progress.

Summit push tomorrow (27th May)

2005-05-26T11:19:00.000+01:00

Stuart called to confirm that they would be making another summit push setting off tomorrow.

The plan:
Starting tomorrow they will climb to C1.
Up to C2 on Saturday 28th.
Up to C3 on Sunday 29th leaving in the evening to climb overnight to..
Everest Summit on Monday the 30th then descending to C2 or C1.
Back to ABC for Tuesday 31st.

Everyone is well although a little weaker... feeling the effects of living at such altitudes for an extended time.

The team will be going up in groups of 3 and assure everyone that the utmost care will be taken for a safe return.

There may not be any news for a few days unless Dr John is able to get through by satellite phone.

The curious incident of the Tibetan in the nightime.

2005-05-25T16:10:00.000+01:00

This may be the last entry before we go up the hill again. We are expecting to leave ABC on the 27th with a view to maximizing our chances with the weather window supposed to come in for the 29th/30th/31st. I will leave instructions with Dr John about phoning you in the morning UK time to give voice updates if that is possible.

Anyway, here is the latest:

Getting relatively close to our departure from the mountain, we are looking at any way of easing our end of expedition final packing up and getting down. So when a Tibetan turned up with 3 yaks offering to carry some loads down the 22km to BC, we jumped at the chance. The only trouble was we could only muster 2 1/2 loads. The yak man suggested our bog barrel (our toilet is a blue plastic barrel to enable us to remove our human waste for proper disposal away from the mountain) but it was only 2/3 full so we said no thanks.

Stuart with a Tibetan (his glasses not mine)

Anyway...first thing the following morning a somewhat distressed Phenden Sherpa appeared outside Tom's tent (legs crossed) saying someone had stolen the toilet! We informed the mountain police but they had nothing to go on!!! What on earth a Tibetan is going to do with a blue plastic barrel 2/3 full of human waste is anyone's guess. Maybe he has a large vegetable garden?!!!

A few days ago we said 'so long' to Ross who was forced to return to Kathmandu with possible medical problems. He was checked out there and thankfully given the all clear. Cheers Ross, all the best, you are with us in spirit.
My stone arch and Everest with jet stream winds coming off summit. (today)

One thing worth pointing out is that there have been a number of reports in Everestnews.com that have proved less than reliable. Because anyone can contribute to the website, people are too quick to report things before they have been confirmed. Therefore please treat information on this site with a large pinch of salt.

The weather remains very windy but there is a lull expected around the 29th onwards into June. Our intention is to all move up to the North Col on the 27th, continuing up the mountain in stages with possible summit days on the 30th or 31st depending on conditions.

A few of us wandered across the glacier the other day to the Raphu La which overlooks the Kangshung Valley. From the pass you get fantastic views across the Kangshung Face of Everest, you can almost reach out and touch Makalu and over to the east you have Kangchenjunga and Jannu, quite spectacular.

Our time here is running out and most of the talk now (and for the last 6 weeks) concerns the food we will consume in Kathmandu. Hopefully the next few days will bring some good news. Stay tuned.

That's it for now. Hope you are all well.

Burn baby burn 22/5/2005

2005-05-23T21:43:00.000+01:00

The week my beard caught fire. Strictly speaking it was only my moustache but I don't want you thinking a moustache is all I have. That would be wrong. Vain yes but hey. So I ignited my lip caterpillar whilst lighting a stove. Silver Lining is I got my nostril hairs too.

Matt Tim and I returned to ABC for our second push. We'd been a week in the thick of base camp air, playing horseshoes and flirting with Buddhist nuns.

Back up to 6400metres and then up to the North Col again but this time for an overnight. Sorry Tom, I was hoping to get a Happy Birthday to you on time but it was the 19th that we were sleeping through 17 headaches. All the best fella, we, Matt and I, toasted you in the most appropriate way.

So from the North Col we woke to the most heavenly sunrise I have clapped eyes on and lurched, heaved and staggered our way up to just short of camp2, clocking our highest footsteps yet at 7500metres. Hurt my lungs a wee bit but the Doc says no serious damage has been done and I'm resting up with a few days off now. By far our best day with Chomolungma yet.

Our next outing is gonna be it. Summit bids are looking to be in a few days toward the end of the month, probably after the 26thish. Sorry, nothing is certain around here, every camp has it's unique forecast it seems. On that front though I must make amends. Jamie Mcguinness who's email I have the access too is very hospitable and in general, maybe due to the common cause, people are much more sociable.

OK y'all, it's bloody difficult to keep up postings, Stuart is doing the best job so apologies if it turns out to be another week or so, it ain't for the lack of caring and trying. Elements conspire up here.

Robbie we miss ya, someone keeps nicking the chickens

Tom, belated Birthday me olds.

Mum and Dad, love you. Woof to Tika.

Heather and family, Matt sends his Love

It just is'nt possible to mention you all but it's cold without you and looking forward to hugs all round.
Missing ya'll muchly.
Danx

PS Message from John: Lots of love to Annapurna, Adam, Leah, Matthew and Logan.......from Dr. John

The waiting game

2005-05-21T20:26:00.001+01:00

False start on the first summit bid: Ian, Tom and Stuart met up with Mick on the North Col. We had a provisional weather window of at least 4 days before the wind was due to pick up. The evening radio call brought a revised forecast indicating strong winds returning much sooner. We took the painful decision to retreat and wait for a better forecast.

Mick crossing a crevasse under the North Col

On top of the obvious physical challenge, the emotional and psychological side of climbing this mountain cannot be underestimated: You get a favourable forecast, a window in the weather, anticipation, anxiety, butterflies, you set off, get to camp 1 after considerable effort only to find out on the next radio call that the weather is likely to deteriorate, instant downer on the emotional rollercoaster.

Tom climbing fixed ropes towards the North

All our mountain planning is based on weather information which is dependent on the relatively unpredictable and fickle nature of the jet stream and jet streaks. All indications at the moment point towards a late arrival of the monsoon which generally determines the best climbing weather window. This is most likely to occur at the end of May or even the beginning of June which is somewhat unusual.

Looking up at the summit this morning (it's snowing this afternoon) the wind is blasting snow off the top, a moderate plume of cloud is streaming off the lee side. With a summit temperature of around -30 celsius and an estimated wind of around 30km/hr, the wind chill would be around -60 celsius. I think it was a wise call to come down.

More soon.

I can see for miles...

2005-05-19T09:40:00.000+01:00

Stuart called and dictated a Team update at 7am this morning:

Firstly, a big thanks to Matt Reedi (I hope I have spelt it correctly) for the barrel of goodies. Application has been made to the Guinness book of records for the highest ever watermelon...

Matt, Dan and Tim will return today after a night spent on the North Col and a recce up the North ridge to 7500m.

This morning the weather forecast for the next 5 days indicates lower winds so after the telephone call, Tom, Ian and Stuart are moving up to the North Col to meet up with Mick.

Tomorrow they will go to Camp 2 (7700m) and make a summit attempt from there. All being well they will summit on the 22nd.

(It takes 4hrs from ABC to C1 and 4-5 hrs from C1 to C2, there they will eat, drink and sleep. Next day they will climb to Camp 3. This is more of a staging post than a real camp, they will try to rest, eat and drink but will leave C3 around 10pm for a 8-10hr climb to the summit. They will try to descend as far as they can after summitting but at least to C2.)

The team will be in radio contact with Dr John at ABC so it’s possible that Dr John will call with updates to be added to this weblog.

Message to Ian’s parents from Ian, he tried to call but sorry couldn’t get through.

Message to Jenny from Stuart – Good luck on your run on Friday (Bob Graham run) and happy Birthday for the 21st!

Dan's quote in the Times

2005-05-19T09:35:00.000+01:00

Link to "Beardies, saunas and me" by
Stefanie Marsh

If the link above doesn't work, search for "Everest" on the Timesonline.co.uk website.

Too strong to summit

2005-05-18T10:57:00.000+01:00

Phone call this morning from Ian, winds still too strong on summit, 100mph so just waiting for aweather window.

Everyone is well and resting and just waiting to get on with the climb.

Other Everest information resources

2005-05-14T23:52:00.000+01:00

No news since saturday but here are some links so that you can find
more info on the state of the weather, route descriptions and images, conditions and what the other expeditions are up to.

Weather information forecasts for expeditions. –18C at ABC and –32C on the summit!

Route illustration and links to 360 degree Quicktime images. NB there are some differences for example the camp naming; Camp III is ABC, Camp IV is our camp 1 on the North Col etc.
A description of the North East ridge route “The Way to the Summit” by Eric Simonson and Jochen Hemmleb from the same site.

The helicopter mystery solved!

If you want more news from Everest and the latest from many other expeditions:
http://www.mounteverest.net/…

And if Stuart didn’t already know everything about Everest already (and everything else for that matter) then this is the place he could find it:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Everest

Some of these links will be added to the menu on the right for easy future access (soonish).

Moving up to wait...

2005-05-14T09:53:00.000+01:00

I've just had a call from Stuart to let everyone know the teams progress.

Some of them left yesterday to go back up to ABC and everyone is meeting there on Monday. They will then stay there waiting for a lift in the Jet Stream which is howling across the upper slopes. There's a big plume cloud on the summit and at the moment it's impossible to climb higher.

They have spent the last few days relaxing, reading, walking and eating. They're all in very good shape, they just need the wind to drop.

They have no means of contacting us for the next few days. It's now a waiting game...

I'll add more over the next couple of days about helicopters, weather, the route and paragliding (or lack of it).

The grapes of Ross!

2005-05-10T21:05:00.000+01:00

Howdo again,

Another update, this time thanks to Jamie McGuinness:

As the jet stream winds strip the upper mountain of snow and send streamers and plumes off the higher elevations and the Rongbuk Valley wind threatens to uproot and throw our tents far into Tibet, our team have been busy at BC challenging the Indian Air Force Everest Team to a game of horseshoes. Apologies first to the unfortunate limping Tibetan ponies who sacrificed their shoes for our worthy cause! Mick promises to return them at the end of the expedition.

Matt, Dan and horse shoe.

Mick's attention to detail in pitch preparation would make any Wimbledon grounds man proud! The game started off with our star player Mick, who had been practicing all morning, being easily beaten by an Indian who had never picked up a horseshoe in his life. The game progressed quite evenly, they would win a round then we would win one. In the end, in the interests of
diplomacy and good will, we let them beat us by a narrow margin (they completely whupped our ass!). Application has been made to Guinness however for the record of highest ever game of horseshoes!

Yesterday we were interviewed and photographed by staff of the Times newspaper who are here to cover Sir Ranulph Fiennes attempt. Keep your eyes open in the newspapers for our handsome tanned faces. One day the Keswick Reminder, the next, the Times. Whatever next? Possibly the Tibetan Gazette for stealing horseshoes!

Dr. John is hosting a medical meeting in our BC this afternoon for all expedition doctors (apart from the Chinese who rudely snubbed the invitation for some reason). This is to coordinate the positioning of medical expertise and equipment on the mountain during the final phase of summit attempts.

The team intends to move back to ABC in dribs and drabs from the 12th. With no clear period of stable weather obvious from forecasts at the moment, the emphasis is on rest and recuperation. During the next quiet period, Russel Brice's team of Sherpas will fix the remainder of the mountain from 8300m past the crux of the second step at 8600m paving the way for summit attempts.

Thanks for all your comments on this blog site. Unfortunately we are not in a position to read them at the moment. We look forward to catching up with all news back in Kathmandu in a few weeks. More news soon.