The waiting game
False start on the first summit bid: Ian, Tom and Stuart met up with Mick on the North Col. We had a provisional weather window of at least 4 days before the wind was due to pick up. The evening radio call brought a revised forecast indicating strong winds returning much sooner. We took the painful decision to retreat and wait for a better forecast.
Mick crossing a crevasse under the North Col
On top of the obvious physical challenge, the emotional and psychological side of climbing this mountain cannot be underestimated: You get a favourable forecast, a window in the weather, anticipation, anxiety, butterflies, you set off, get to camp 1 after considerable effort only to find out on the next radio call that the weather is likely to deteriorate, instant downer on the emotional rollercoaster.
Tom climbing fixed ropes towards the North
All our mountain planning is based on weather information which is dependent on the relatively unpredictable and fickle nature of the jet stream and jet streaks. All indications at the moment point towards a late arrival of the monsoon which generally determines the best climbing weather window. This is most likely to occur at the end of May or even the beginning of June which is somewhat unusual.
Looking up at the summit this morning (it's snowing this afternoon) the wind is blasting snow off the top, a moderate plume of cloud is streaming off the lee side. With a summit temperature of around -30 celsius and an estimated wind of around 30km/hr, the wind chill would be around -60 celsius. I think it was a wise call to come down.
More soon.
Mick crossing a crevasse under the North Col
On top of the obvious physical challenge, the emotional and psychological side of climbing this mountain cannot be underestimated: You get a favourable forecast, a window in the weather, anticipation, anxiety, butterflies, you set off, get to camp 1 after considerable effort only to find out on the next radio call that the weather is likely to deteriorate, instant downer on the emotional rollercoaster.
Tom climbing fixed ropes towards the North
All our mountain planning is based on weather information which is dependent on the relatively unpredictable and fickle nature of the jet stream and jet streaks. All indications at the moment point towards a late arrival of the monsoon which generally determines the best climbing weather window. This is most likely to occur at the end of May or even the beginning of June which is somewhat unusual.
Looking up at the summit this morning (it's snowing this afternoon) the wind is blasting snow off the top, a moderate plume of cloud is streaming off the lee side. With a summit temperature of around -30 celsius and an estimated wind of around 30km/hr, the wind chill would be around -60 celsius. I think it was a wise call to come down.
More soon.
posted by Karrimor 2005 Everest Team at 8:26 PM
3 Comments:
dear dan,i know you won't see this til afterwards;but you're on my mind loads;i hope you get your window,soon."Tropical maledy" is one of the strangest films,i've ever seen,you're no barry norman daniel!!!all my good vibes jodie xxx
Dear Ian, Im running to my comuter as soon as I come in and at work this is the first site I open. Very excited when you get the right weather to finally climb the bloody mountain !!! Thinking of you!!! Proud of you!! Love, Nora.
MICK, Mat, Dan & all the rest of course!
Thinking of you...... wish I was there! See you soon.
"It will have to be pretty tough to stop us now"! (EH 1955)
Good Luck
David Messenger
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